I’m working on a longer piece about Queer Food, a new book by Shifting the Food Narrative but wanted to say a quick ‘hi’ and tell you about some of the things I have been up to.
Had no idea that Santorini was so blighted with idiot tourists — but thoughtless behaviour comes as no surprise. Increasingly, the attitude of being oblivious to others pertains. Depressing.
Ugh the dress thing! We had some tourist on our local reddit ask if "anyone has some extra horses lying around" so she could do a flying dress shoot in her wedding dress. Thank you for advocating on behalf of those of us who live in tourist locales, like so many around the world, I didn't move to a tourist destination, but one descended upon me.
The tomato museum! I did my MA at UC Davis which is in the center of California's canned tomato territory. Students would often ask for accomodation so they could drive during the tomato harvest for extra money ...
Yeah, kind of ended me too. We were polite, but FFS. She kept banging on about how she was an experienced horse person, but “extra horses” and big billowing dress? I mean I’ve nearly been killed by a horse when a plastic bag blew past.
One of my favorite travel memories is that of waking up in a cool bedroom carved out of the limestone rock in Oia and finding a table laid outside with barley rusks that had been dipped in sea water and topped with homemade tomato jam and feta.
I agree with just about everything except for tipping. In most of Southern Europe, people round up the bill to the nearest 5, 10 or even just to the next euro. So if tourists start tipping huge amounts, it creates a problem for the locals.
I love the tip about local transport- I live in Lisbon since 2023 and while my neighbourhood is not very tourist, most of my buses go to and from a very popular tourist destination and between April and October it is at times impossible to get on the bus, let alone get a seat. And I am not even talking about the trams, which basically have now become amusement rides for the tourists.
Do you think people in the hospitality industry have different expectations of locals when it comes to tipping? I know my waiter friends in Greece don't expect their regulars to tip like tourists do (nor do they expect anything from tourists). I think of it as an informal tourist tax, a way for me to mitigate the extra cost of living in extremely popular places like Santorini, where a lot of the food has to be imported and there's a huge strain on the infrastructure. But I do take your point.
I cannot understand why all popular tourist destinations don't operate locally-friendly travel schemes. Tourists using public transport during rush hour (unless they are travelling to airports/ports/train stations) should be heavily penalised.
I guess there is a difference if you are a local or a tourist, but if the restaurateurs get the idea that people have so much money, they often also increase prices and then locals can't even eat in those places anymore (this has happened in Slovenia where I am originally from and also in Croatia that I've been visiting regularly all my life. And in Lisbon too).
Bit like Venice where if you’re local and stand in a bar the price is far less than if you are a tourist and sit. Quite right. I think that in any small place, over run with tourists, the locals should have first dibs and pay less. Different in Paris, London etc
Absolutely fascinating, what a wonderful thing they have created to preserve this history. The way that you have described how tomatoes are grown are very similar to how I have seen them in central Sicily (also dry farmed out of necessity) -- probably the tastiest I have ever had. Also thank you for writing about overtourism and how to be a better traveler in these places too. Living in Italy, I witness this first hand!
Thank you so much for commenting. Santorini is starkly beautiful and dramatic, but it is so damaged by tourism; some regions have barely any private housing left. It left me feeling very conflicted and hypocritical, and wishing these places could find a good compromise.
As for the tomatoes, it is incredible how their low-moisture flesh is so succulent and delicious- but it is!
I always remember talking to a German man at a tradeshow and somehow we got talking about holidays. He was telling me "In Santorini there are monkeys who carry your cases up the hill". It took me a good while to realise that just one letter lost in translation gave a very funny scenario!
Loved this piece .And that tomato history is fascinating!
Thank you 😊
Had no idea that Santorini was so blighted with idiot tourists — but thoughtless behaviour comes as no surprise. Increasingly, the attitude of being oblivious to others pertains. Depressing.
Fascinating stuff about the tomatoes. Thank you
It was a shock
Ugh the dress thing! We had some tourist on our local reddit ask if "anyone has some extra horses lying around" so she could do a flying dress shoot in her wedding dress. Thank you for advocating on behalf of those of us who live in tourist locales, like so many around the world, I didn't move to a tourist destination, but one descended upon me.
The tomato museum! I did my MA at UC Davis which is in the center of California's canned tomato territory. Students would often ask for accomodation so they could drive during the tomato harvest for extra money ...
' extra horses ' has ended me. 😂
Yeah, kind of ended me too. We were polite, but FFS. She kept banging on about how she was an experienced horse person, but “extra horses” and big billowing dress? I mean I’ve nearly been killed by a horse when a plastic bag blew past.
I used to ride a horse that would spook at the sight of his own pee running between his legs down the road if he was facing downhill.
This piece is so good; a very enjoyable read.
One of my favorite travel memories is that of waking up in a cool bedroom carved out of the limestone rock in Oia and finding a table laid outside with barley rusks that had been dipped in sea water and topped with homemade tomato jam and feta.
I couldn't get over how lucky I was to be there.
Greece is very special. And Greeks are the best potato cooks in the world. Nobody does it better.
I think you're confusing them with the Irish.
No. I stand by my comment. Greek people are the best potato cooks in the world. They know when to stop fiddling.
Cypriot potatoes are terrific
I worked at a very wonderful Greek restaurant called Kokkari for 17 years. I love me a Greek potato.
I was just cuttin' up and actin' silly because I thought you'd made a typo.
LOL I know, I get you. But I am deadly serious about Greek potato skills
The Greeks have the ability to make even weeds delicious. My love for their cooking runs deep.
I agree with just about everything except for tipping. In most of Southern Europe, people round up the bill to the nearest 5, 10 or even just to the next euro. So if tourists start tipping huge amounts, it creates a problem for the locals.
I love the tip about local transport- I live in Lisbon since 2023 and while my neighbourhood is not very tourist, most of my buses go to and from a very popular tourist destination and between April and October it is at times impossible to get on the bus, let alone get a seat. And I am not even talking about the trams, which basically have now become amusement rides for the tourists.
Do you think people in the hospitality industry have different expectations of locals when it comes to tipping? I know my waiter friends in Greece don't expect their regulars to tip like tourists do (nor do they expect anything from tourists). I think of it as an informal tourist tax, a way for me to mitigate the extra cost of living in extremely popular places like Santorini, where a lot of the food has to be imported and there's a huge strain on the infrastructure. But I do take your point.
I cannot understand why all popular tourist destinations don't operate locally-friendly travel schemes. Tourists using public transport during rush hour (unless they are travelling to airports/ports/train stations) should be heavily penalised.
I guess there is a difference if you are a local or a tourist, but if the restaurateurs get the idea that people have so much money, they often also increase prices and then locals can't even eat in those places anymore (this has happened in Slovenia where I am originally from and also in Croatia that I've been visiting regularly all my life. And in Lisbon too).
That's a real shame. I hadn't considered this.
Bit like Venice where if you’re local and stand in a bar the price is far less than if you are a tourist and sit. Quite right. I think that in any small place, over run with tourists, the locals should have first dibs and pay less. Different in Paris, London etc
I heartily approve
That museum looks worth the trip! Thank you for such useful, thoughtful advice for visiting an over-visited place.
It is worth every penny and more. Their programme of events is wonderful too; the museum does a lot of outreach.
Absolutely fascinating, what a wonderful thing they have created to preserve this history. The way that you have described how tomatoes are grown are very similar to how I have seen them in central Sicily (also dry farmed out of necessity) -- probably the tastiest I have ever had. Also thank you for writing about overtourism and how to be a better traveler in these places too. Living in Italy, I witness this first hand!
Thank you so much for commenting. Santorini is starkly beautiful and dramatic, but it is so damaged by tourism; some regions have barely any private housing left. It left me feeling very conflicted and hypocritical, and wishing these places could find a good compromise.
As for the tomatoes, it is incredible how their low-moisture flesh is so succulent and delicious- but it is!
I always remember talking to a German man at a tradeshow and somehow we got talking about holidays. He was telling me "In Santorini there are monkeys who carry your cases up the hill". It took me a good while to realise that just one letter lost in translation gave a very funny scenario!
Hahaha! The monkeys would never stand for it
Be wary of Greek monkeys. They are king killers.
https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/october-25/greece-king-alexander-death-monkey-bite-1920
send them to the uk
The English have proven they are quite capable of dispatching kings named Charles without the assistance of monkeys.
but I am worried we're losing our touch of late
To be fair, you haven't had a Charles in ages. The second one seemed pretty fun, so I'm glad you skipped him.